Freecoaster

What is a freecoaster and what is its main purpose?

A freecoaster is a specific rear hub that disengages the drivetrain when the bike rolls backward. Unlike a cassette hub, the cranks do not turn when riding backward (fakie). This makes balancing much easier and enables many tricks in Street and Flatland that would be very difficult with rotating pedals.

How is a freecoaster constructed?

Hub Shell

The housing containing the internals. It is almost always made of aluminum to withstand the high forces of the clutch mechanism.

Driver

The gear (usually 9 teeth) that the chain runs on.

Clutch

The core component (in classic systems). A mechanism inside that engages the driver with the hub when pedaling and disengages it when rolling.

Axle

The load-bearing connection to the frame. The standard here is 14mm.

What types are there? (Clutch vs. Planetary)

A lot has changed here in recent years:

Classic Clutch System (KHE Style)

Uses a cone (clutch) that screws into the hub when pedaling. Pro: The "slack" (gap before engagement) is often adjustable. Con: When not pedaling, the hub is silent (no clicking).

Planetary Hubs

Newer systems (e.g., from BSD, Alienation). They use a planetary gear system. Pro: They often sound like cassette hubs (click when rolling), engage instantly (little slack), but disengage immediately when riding backward.

Hybrid Hubs

Some modern hubs (e.g., from eclat or Wethepeople) can be converted from cassette mode to freecoaster mode. Ideal for riders who want to try both.

Which materials are used?

Hub Shell: Aluminum (6061-T6, 7075)

The industry standard is 6061-T6 Aluminum. It is strong and proven. Some high-end models use the harder 7075 Aluminum.

Axle: 4130 CrMo (Chromoly)

The standard for durability. A heat-treated steel axle that does not bend even with peg use.

Upgrade: Titanium (Axles & Drivers)

Those looking to save weight (especially in Flatland or for light Park bikes) opt for parts made of Titanium. They are almost as strong as CrMo but significantly lighter.

Which freecoaster is right for me?

This depends on your riding style and budget:

• Street: Stability is key. Choose a hub with a 14mm CrMo axle (Male or Female). If you grind, pay attention to the "Drive Side" (LHD if you grind on the right, RHD if you grind on the left) and make sure Hubguards are included.
• Flatland: Every gram counts here. Since modern Flatland frames usually have 14mm dropouts as well, standard coasters fit without issues. However, many Flatland riders upgrade to Titanium axles or special lightweight coasters (e.g., with Female bolts) to improve handling.

How do I install a freecoaster?

1. Place the rear wheel into the frame and put the chain on the driver.
2. Tension the chain by pulling the wheel back.
3. Ensure the wheel is centered in the frame.
4. Tighten the axle nuts firmly. Important: With freecoasters, do not overtighten the cone nuts against the bearings, as this can cause the bearings to bind ("side-load").

How do I maintain my freecoaster?

• Greasing: Classic coasters need regular grease inside so the clutch disengages cleanly and doesn't "stick".
• Bearing Play: Regularly check if the wheel has side-to-side play.
• Hubguards: Replace worn guards in time before the spokes or hub flange are damaged.

Common problems and solutions

• Clicking when pedaling: Often a sign of dry bearings or a dirty clutch -> Clean and grease.
• Ghost Pedaling (pedals turn while rolling): Usually the grease inside is too thick or the bearings are damaged.

What do the specifications mean for freecoasters?