MTB Frames

Q: How is an MTB Frame constructed?

Head Tube Usually Tapered (conical) to accommodate modern, stiff forks. The head angle determines handling: Steep = agile (Dirt), Slack = stable at high speed (Enduro/Freeride). Rear Triangle & Dropouts On dirt frames often horizontal (for singlespeed chain tension). On Enduro/Freeride frames usually designed for thru-axles (148x12mm Boost) and derailleurs. Bottom Bracket Often threaded (BSA/Euro BB) for easy maintenance and creak-free performance.

Q: What materials are used?

Chromoly Steel (4130 CrMo) The classic in the Dirt/Street sector. Slightly heavier, but extremely robust and lively. Ideal for street and pump tracks. Aluminum (6061-T6) Lighter and stiffer. Standard for race bikes and almost all full-suspension frames (Enduro/Slopestyle), as complex shapes for shock mounts can be realized here.

Q: How do I assemble an MTB Frame?

Preparation: Lightly grease all threads (bottom bracket, thru-axle). Headset: Press in cups (if not integrated) and grease bearings. Shock (for Fullies): Choose correct bushings and mount with proper torque. Drivetrain: Install bottom bracket. Pay attention to chainline (Boost) on Enduro frames. Cables: Route brake and shift cables (check for internal or external routing).

MTB Frames FAQ

What is an MTB Dirt/Slopestyle Frame?

The frame is the centerpiece. Unlike classic trail bikes, these frames are more compact, stronger, and more agile. They are built to withstand jumps, tricks, and hard landings. A rough distinction is made between Hardtails (front suspension only) and Full Suspension (rear shock).

How is an MTB Frame constructed?

Head Tube: Usually Tapered (conical) to accommodate modern, stiff forks. The head angle determines handling: Steep = agile (Dirt), Slack = stable at high speed (Enduro/Freeride).
Rear Triangle & Dropouts: On dirt frames often horizontal (for singlespeed chain tension). On Enduro/Freeride frames usually designed for thru-axles (148x12mm Boost) and derailleurs.
Bottom Bracket: Often threaded (BSA/Euro BB) for easy maintenance and creak-free performance.

What materials are used?

Chromoly Steel (4130 CrMo): The classic in the Dirt/Street sector. Slightly heavier, but extremely robust and lively. Ideal for street and pump tracks.
Aluminum (6061-T6): Lighter and stiffer. Standard for race bikes and almost all full-suspension frames (Enduro/Slopestyle), as complex shapes for shock mounts can be realized here.

Which frame is right for me?

The boundaries between disciplines are fluid. Here is a guide:

Intended Use	Frame Type	Details
Dirt Jump, Street & Slopestyle	Hardtail or Short Travel Fully	It comes down to taste: Hardtails are direct, light, and low-maintenance – perfect for street and pump tracks, but also suitable for bigger jumps. Short Travel Fullies (approx. 100mm) offer reserves for huge jumps and slopestyle tricks but are more complex.
Freeride, Enduro & Park	Long Travel Fully (140-200mm)	The all-rounder for big hits. These frames climb efficiently due to modern seat angles but are a weapon downhill for jumps and speed. Unlike a pure Downhill Bike (which cannot climb), you are flexible here.

How do I assemble an MTB Frame?

Preparation: Lightly grease all threads (bottom bracket, thru-axle).
Headset: Press in cups (if not integrated) and grease bearings.
Shock (for Fullies): Choose correct bushings and mount with proper torque.
Drivetrain: Install bottom bracket. Pay attention to chainline (Boost) on Enduro frames.
Cables: Route brake and shift cables (check for internal or external routing).

What do the specifications mean?

Term	Explanation	Examples / Available
Travel	How much movement the rear frame offers.	100mm (Slopestyle) to 200mm (Freeride)
Top Tube & Reach	Determines how stretched you stand. Reach is the modern measure (bottom bracket to head tube horizontal).	Reach: 460mm - 500mm
Hub Spacing	Width of the rear hub.	135x10mm (Dirt Standard), 148x12mm (Boost Standard)
Seat Angle	Important for Enduro: The steeper (e.g. 78 deg), the better you pedal uphill.	77 - 79 deg (Climb friendly)